Windows XP Networking
 

Essentially, you have to set up the folders or drive on each computer that you want to share. I do that using windows explorer, and by right clicking the folder I want to share and selecting the "sharing" option. You could also just select the drive (c:/, d:/, e:/) and do the same thing and share that entire drive.

I'd check the Help files on networking--XP generally has programs to set up networking protocols for you.

Best,

Flinty

new question
 

So I got the digital camera (yes, I know that I am way behind the curve) and now I'm starting to look at photo printers. Anyone bought one recently that they would suggest? If I bought a Canon camera, is a Canon printer a good idea? I have no printer at home, so I guess I'm in the market for something that will both print pictures well and print other stuff...

new question
 

My sister and I have both come to the conclusion that it is more cost-effective to use ofoto (or similar service) for your actual photo-finishing. At $1/sheet for the photo-quality printer paper, you're better off paying ofoto 50c for a 4x6 or more for larger. Don't forget to factor in the cost of your mistakes and the ink cartridges, which run out very quickly it seems.

If you really need a printer, I've been happy with a basic HP inkjet. Slow as molasses, and the ink runs, but it looks pretty good. Of course, I print out at work on the laser printer any bigger jobs. And I'm considering a home laser printer.

new question
 

I'd discourage this. Looking for a printer that's good at printing photos and good at printing text and webpages etc. is like looking for a convertible sports car that can carry eight.

Inkjet printer manufacturers aren't in the business of selling printers. They're in the business of selling ink cartridges. At $25 a pop, you'll soon exceed the cost of the printer if you print anything of substance. Each page of text is money down the drain --- a very slow drain, but a drain nonetheless.

My advice: get a cheap home-duty laser printer ($170 to $300), and a dedicated 4x6 photo printer ($150). I recommend the Brother 1440 (tops in Consumer Reports, a magazine to which I actually subscribe --- online) and the HP PhotoSmart 145. Trust me, you'll never print a photo larger than 4x6, and if you need to, you should use an online photo service anyway.

new question
 

seems to me to be a very quick drain. unless you mean print speed.

new question
 

Uh, I did. Joke wasn't clear.

I'll never use the Windows calculator accessory again.
 

Speed of light in furlongs per fortnight according to the Google Calculator.

And, what S^2 and G^3 really stand for.

I'll never use the Windows calculator accessory again.
 

Putting "define:[your favorite word here]" into any Google search box is pretty cool, too.

new question
 

If you want really good photos, go for the Epson 2200, which has 7 dyes and can do sizes up to 13x19 (or 13x44 if you like panaramas) suitable for framing. You'll probably spend about $700. If you are not into this, I would get a multipurpose HP or Epson, at least 6 dye if you can, but save the real photo printing for a professional photo lab. I have found that once you have the possibility of printing a decent 8x10 or putting an 800 x 600 pixel photo on the web, there is no longer any reason to deal with any kind of 4x6 except as a "proof".

But if you think you'll keep doing 4x6s out of habit or because you like them, go with Atticus' approach. I just no longer like them much at all.

I'll never use the Windows calculator accessory again.
 

Thank you. This is excellent information.

I'll never use the Windows calculator accessory again.
 

But, by the way, what about P^2?

new question
 

Really?!? Around here, 4x6 is still the gold standard for albums and gift snapshots to grandparents etc. Giving someone a framed 8x10 would be seen as ostentatious, except mebbe in Hollywood.

I agree that more dyes are better, but I use a dedicated black/gray cartridge to print from my HP, since I use editing software to strip out color from digital shots to print to B&W. Otherwise I'd be throwing out expensive ink cartridges with only one or two empty chambers and the rest full to the brim.

new question
 

What we do for grandma (when she isn't already entralled by her Ceiva, which takes care of much of the year) is get a plain paper album and print various sizes of photos, laid out with the kids' poetry and stories and such, and turn it into something that looks like a yearbook. It's really pretty easy and has a high impact, but is not something you can do with a 4x6 printer. The kids will also decorate the margins for her.

We also do 5x7s framed for her to put on furniture or 8x10s for her to hang on the wall, but both the 5x7s and 8x10s are generally by request only. But neither is ostentacious, and framed 4x6s are really kind of tiny (IMHO and all that jazz).


** Note, this post is for Atticus' benefit and not intended to respond to original question. No implication that NCS is likely to be delivering kids' photos to grandma is intended.

new question
 

That makes sense. What's the verdict on the Ceiva? I recall looking into one for some distant grandparents who might be well-suited, but the up-front cost and TCO haven't come down as much as I'd hoped. I'd probably wind up paying both the $150 upfront and the $8/mo. Is it really worth it? If the answer's yes, are you paying, or is grandma? If you cancel the monthly, will it keep photos in memory, or does it turn into a boat anchor?

new question
 

I think it becomes a boat anchor if you cancel the monthly, though somewhere I'd heard that there are now hacks available on the internet that will free the device from the website.

It's been a big hit. I pick up the monthly as well as the $150 up front, and its been worth it.

I think Ceiva's figured out that most of their competitors are selling very high resolution images free from the web at what are still outrageous prices (in the thousands), and that their resolution is really just fine, equivalent to a computer screen, and their cost looks good in comparison. I bet they don't come down until the big ones do, and that will happen as things like plasma tv also comes down, which is innovation none of the big companies want to see happen.

Wireless network and Tivo
 

I finally had time to set up my wireless network at home this weekend. I'm using a Linksys wireless-B router with four ports to connect to a Slipstream DSL modem and a PPPoE connection. My desktop is connected through an ethernet adaptor to the router, and my laptop is connected through a wireless-B card.

I would like to set up my Tivo to hook into the network, so I can finally get rid of the cord that goes from my telephone jack to my Tivo, and more importantly, so I don't have to unplug the DSL every time Tivo downloads information. (I've tried everything, and the only thing that works is just unplugging the DSL all together.)

Has anyone connected their Tivo to the wireless network in their homes, and if so, was it trouble, and how did you do it? Are you on a PPPoE connection or is your connection always on?

Wireless network and Tivo
 

>I would like to set up my Tivo to hook into the network, so I can >finally get rid of the cord that goes from my telephone jack to >my Tivo, and more importantly, so I don't have to unplug the >DSL every time Tivo downloads information. (I've tried >everything, and the only thing that works is just unplugging the >DSL all together.)

The Tivo just wants a regular phone line to make an analog call. Just drop an extra line to it, you shouldn't have to unplug anything. If that doesn't work, call Tivo, but there's no reason it shouldn't. I wouldn't mess around with using the "phone" port on your DSL modem to attach the Tivo to. Attach it to a separate jack. If there isn't one nearby, get a splitter, put that into the wall, then put the filter into one side, and then Tivo into that, and the normal filterless DSL modem set-up on the otherside of the splitter.

>Are you on a PPPoE connection or is your connection always on?

Since I understand the Tivo just to need an internet connection through some USB card, the act of it querying the connection and trying to send information should cause the router to log in over PPPoE, and it shouldn't be a problem.

Since DirecTV fucks you with the additional uses, this is all speculation, though.

802.11 b Rulez!
 

For anyone interested, concourse E in the Ft. Lauderdale airport is one big-ass free wi-fi hotspot...

fuck
 

so my home computer is totally fucked up. I know that I need to take everything off, reformat, etc. assuming I can get whatever shit that is screwing it up off of the machine, what anti-virus and firewall do people recommend? I have Norton right now but the subscription has lapsed. Is it better to go buy a newer version (this one was bought probably 2 years ago) or does renewing the subscription do it? BTW, I have dsl, if that matters.

all of this is crucial information because I must regain my ability to take flinty's fake money at cards.

gracias.

fuck
 

It's probably not going to matter, because when you try to renew, its going to download the new version anyway. Cost of renewal and a new version is essentially the same.

Norton and McAfee are like Coke and Pepsi - about the same although some people insist on one or the other. The other choice is PCcillin from Trend Micro, which my friend who is head of security for a large corporation recommends. Any of them are going to run you $50 or so for the combination antivirus and firewall (most seem to come with a spamblocker too). There have been recent reports of Norton interfering with Java applets, such as some brokerage sites stock quote services.

fuck
 

Regain? It is to laugh....

fuck
 

You can try the following in order and see if your performance improves (because reformatting, etc. is a pain): (1) download a spyware blocker and purge your harddrive of any parasitic adware programs that run everytime you surf the net; and (2) defrag your harddrive (if you have at least 20% of your disk space free).

C|net has a list of spyware blockers. I use Spybot - Search & Destroy 1.2, which is OK (I haven't tried out others, so if anyone has a better recommendation, please post).

After you've purged the spyware, defragging would be a good idea (if you have a block of time when you won't be using your computer (e.g., overnight), just let your computer sit and defrag -- depending on the size of your harddrive and the extent of the fragmentation, it could take hours). Also, be sure to back up any important files beforehand in case anything goes wrong.

As for firewalls, ZoneAlarm has a free version that appears to work competently. Other options are listed here.

If the price difference isn't substantial, I'd probably buy the newer version.

In terms of needing a firewall, it's highly recommended whether you're using dsl or a cable modem.

Or mine.

De nada.

fuck
 

In figuring out what is screwing up your system, you should think through what you were doing right before the crash and check those areas first.

My system recently crashed and it turned out the cause was an infected music CD that a teenage relative played in the system, and that most of the damage was focused on music match, especially music match's interface with the internet (screwing up rest of internet). Of course, said teenage relative denied even using system. The fact that the CD was still in the drive, though, helped me figure this out.

Once I completely purged the directly affected areas, cleaning up the rest of the system was easy.

fuck
 

This has been bothering me. If a cat has nine lives, then it has eight lives, in which case it can't have nine lives.

fuck
 

Further raising the question, is Penske a cat?

fuck
 

Party pooper. :D

fuck, an update
 

Home computer reformatting has been going on this weekend. So far everything is going great, EXCEPT the fucking Norton internet security system that I bought (includes both a firewall and anti-virus). Can't get the damn thing to enable. And Norton charges you money to call their help line. Bastards.

I'm sure I'll figure it out in time, but a few hours of my life (and Mr Man's) have already been ruined.

On the plus side, I now have Windows XP on the computer and an upgraded DSL connection through SW Bell. And no more annoying whirring hard drive.

Computer question
 

My ancient Dell laptop died recently and my home PC is wheezing. I'd like to replace both with a new laptop. I'd love to get an Apple (based on a possibly inaccurate notion that Apple is better for playing around with photos and videos, and because they're just cooler). I'm trying to figure out what best suits my purposes. I primarily use the computer at home for Internet access (but I don't download a lot of files or play games), Quicken/Turbo Tax, word and excel, and photo/video storage. I want to get one laptop to replace both machines.

So, I have a few questions:

First, is Apple actually better for photo/video editing and storage? I have lots of old family photos I'd like to scan and "restore," as well as videos I'd like to compile and transfer to digital format and transfer to DVD (I guess I'll need a DVD burner) or simply store as files on the computer. I recall reading at least a year ago that the software you can use on an Apple was generally better than software you could buy for a PC.

Second, am I in for a lot of pain in terms of transferring existing files from my PC? I suppose I could buy an Apple and also buy a relatively inexpensive PC just to make life easier if my existing desktop PC ever completely dies. I occasionally email files from work to home to work on Word documents. Will this be impossible if I only have an Apple?

And finally, we currently have wireless set up for (cable) internet access. If I have only a laptop, can I still set up the router or whatever it's called, or will I always need a stationary computer near the cable outlet?

Admittedly these questions are pretty dumb, but indulge me. Thanks.

Computer question
 

Disclaimer: I'm a diehard mac fan. THat said,

1) Not necessarily better, but almost certainly easier. A mac will come bundled with excellent basic level software for photos and movies. You can buy similar, although somewhat less slick, stuff for PCs. If you want something more advanced, you'll have to buy it either way. For example, iPhoto, the apple photo software, has only very basic editing tools (crop, reduce redeye, "enhance", the same stuff you can do online at, e.g., ofoto)--it's not photoshop. But photoshop doesn't come for free. Same with movies. iMovie is a very solid basic movie editor, probably good enough for home movies, unless you want to get into serious cinematography. (And, if you do, then talk to the studios, many of which use high-end macs).

File transfer is very easy. Any word/excel file can be read by the mac software without any problems. To transfer, either burn a CD or connect an ethernet cable between the two (ie, network 'em). Email works too. Basically, the files are cross-compatible. Quicken evidently has problems, and if you use quicken heavily, be aware the Mac version is kind of sucky and buggy.

Not quit sure on your wireless needs, but you can buy an airport card for your apple and use it with other providers' wireless routers. alternatively, you can buy the airport base station, and the airport card, and plug another computer into the ethernet out jack from the base station (it's just a wireless router). There's no need to have a computer set up there so long as you buy a router (I'm assuming you're using "internet sharing" or something on the computer and it's acting as a router as well).

Computer question
 

Hmm. The Quicken thing sucks, as I do use it heavily and want to be able to use it from the laptop. Is there any money management software besides MS Money (my financial institutions' websites don't seem to think so). And don't tell me MS Money is less buggy on a Mac than Quicken is!

I could keep the old PC for Quicken purposes, but then I'm stuck in the spare room, when I'd rather pay bills & balance accounts in the kitchen or living room.

Thanks for the info.

Computer question
 

I don't mean to make it sound like it doesn't work at all, just that it's not what I'm told the PC experience is. The issue is, however, Intuit, not Apple. They do a half-assed job of support.

There also is a program called Virtual PC that allows you to run PC programs on your mac (it emulates windows software). Supposedly it does quite well, and I expect it would work okay with Quicken.

I've been looking around for alternatives, and there's not a good one. There are plenty of programs for just checking/banking, but none that also manage/organize investments. I don't believe MS MOney is available on macs.

Computer question
 

Damn, you're fast. It sounds manageable, especially since I'll have a backup until I figure it all out. I think I'll go to the Apple store on Sunday and check out the powerbooks.

Computer question
 

I have a PowerBook with an AirPort Extreme (gotta love Apple) wireless point. The AirPort plugs directly into my DSL modem with no need for an additional router; I understand cable modems basically are routers and go directly into the AirPort as well.

Ditto Burger on all points; no direct experience of Quicken. Sharing files on MS products is easy; I think the Mac version of Word is actually better than the Windows version.

For sharing files, drop $40 on a mid-sized USB key drive. It's a flash memory card with a built-in USB connector; you plug it in and it's like a removable drive on both machines. You can carry files to and from work that way, too. I spent about $70 on a 256MB card so I could ferry some MP3s to and from work.

As another attorney who's PC at work and Mac at home, I can tell you it works. Check out whether your firm has Terminal Server for remote access; I often run complete Windows session on my Mac screen at home using a free download from MS.

Computer question
 

I think you have the same set up I do at home: a desktop connected by ethernet to a wireless / wired router that is connected to the cable modem. If typical, the router will take up to four wired connections and (theoretically, at least) an unlimited number of wireless devices.

If that is your setup, you do not need to keep a computer hard-wired into the router, but you do need to keep around the equipment necessary to do so (i.e. an ethernet cable, and an ethernet card or port for you laptop) in case something goes wrong. What could go wrong? You could configure your wireless network to only accept connections from particular MAC addresses (i.e. just your notebook), and then your notebook could crater and you can't get back into the router wirelessly. A physical connection would get you back in to reset the configuration. You will also probably need to be physically connected to do the initial setup.

So long story short, so long as your new computer has the capacity to connect into a physical ethernet system, you do not need a seperate machine hooked into the network. All this applies for Mac or PC.

Spam
 

Anyone have an idea why the spam I've been getting recently suddenly started including long strings of 25 cent words that bear no relationship to the product? Is this some way of beating a spam filter?

Spam
 

I have been getting a ridiculous amount of porn spam from my bigfoot mail forwarding service. All of the e-mails say something nondescript like - hi, I think you'll like this, or hi, check this out. It's usually from a nondescript person like Sue, or Mary or Brad. When I click on the link it takes me to a beaver shot and a heinous porn site. This is either an attempt to get me to use the pay service which includes a spam filter, or you people have given my e-mail to your heinous porn sellers.

Spam
 

Hmmm. And yet you keep clicking the porn links...I'm starting to second-guess my belief that you were female.

Spam
 

I think the use of the term "beaver shot" is what really calls it into doubt.

Spam
 

Hey. When Mary tells me to check something out, I click.
As to my gender, ask Hank - he knows the truth.

Spam
 

Yes. They are used to circumvent the Bayesian analysis used in some spam filters. See, e.g., http://www.wired.com/news/infostruct...,61886,00.html